http://comme.com.au

What they said...Good Food Guide 2012

Some places just have it: born of good stock and endowed with fine physical attributes. In a tidy lane at the top of Collins, Comme occupies a grand 1880s renaissance revival building.

The small windowless restaurant tucked down the back, behind the stairs, with soaring ceilings, high-end designer fixtures and white double doors that lead to the separate bar. Sounds a bit members-only?

It could be, if not for the informal, disarming service: comprehensive introductions include the bread (Noisette) and butter (Lescure). No introductions are necessary, though, for much on the tight menu, often sophisticated interpretations of familiar dishes.

Entrees like yellowfin tuna nicoise salad topped with a quail egg, and seared scallops in a garden of baby watercress with velvety apple puree and salty kipper crisps speak for themselves.

Mains are stylish too: poached hapuku fillet with confit baby onions, hazelnuts and creme fraiche. If desserts include a gleaming crisp-coated Valrhona chocolate mousse torte…just have it.