http://comme.com.au

Upstairs, the huge function rooms have been treated to a modern take on grand ballroom, with lime chandeliers, circular green mats and wired stools. It works perfectly and no doubt has enthralled many a bride. Downstairs the bar (an impressive cavern adjacent the kitchen) and restaurant (a separate room with seats for 50) are the habitat of bankers and executives. Breakfast and lunch meetings are held throughout the week in the one hat restaurant and come Friday, it’s time for some respite. As General Manager Marty McCaig puts it, “they’ve had a good day or a bad day, and either way, they’re going to drink.”

The Latin ipsa loquitur comes to mind: ‘the thing speaks for itself’. Although Comme may be lauded, the building may be grand and the team of outstanding standard, Comme is not showy. A quiet confidence permeates the Chesterfield-like studded leather benches, unframed art and approachable wait staff. Comme has nothing to prove.

In no small part, that confidence is due to the skill of Comme’s Executive Chef of two years (and three months, as he clarifies), Daniel Southern. Whilst Comme at one stage offered Spanish/French inspired tapas, a return to modern French bistro courses suits a corporate audience who are less inclined to share their lunch. Southern talks us through his current favourite, a perfect half round of snail pie (‘Snail pie’ Burgundy style with parsley, lardons and mushrooms, garlic cream and jus – $16). “We’ve always had garlic snails on, it’s just gone around in different forms and it’s finally come to that,” he says. “It’s probably coming towards the end of its cycle now and I’ve just got to think of the next one. Initially it didn’t sell that well, but I changed the wording on the menu and you’d be surprised what perception will do.” Southern removed the ‘French fancy terms’ and tripled sales of the dish.

Southern says he doesn’t have a signature dish. “I try and keep some offal on the menu and keep our French bistro food a little bit interesting, rather than going ‘mussels and chips’, boring, boring, boring.” While a wholesale change of the menu usually doesn’t occur, you can expect one or two dishes to change every couple of weeks. Southern is keen to keep the menu interesting for Comme’s regular customers, himself and his chefs. “A few of us have worked in places where the menu hasn’t changed for six months, seven months, eight months… it’s just head against the wall…” he says.

For a chef who up until recently didn’t have vegetarian dishes on the menu (although he had options available for customers who requested vegetarian), the vegetarian entrée (Salad of beetroot, broccoli and goats curd with burnt orange dressing and almond crumble – $16) is a surprise stand-out. For meat eaters though, there’s no going past the truly fantastic scallops (Pan roasted scallops and Boudin Blanc, cauliflower, sage, caper berries and squid ink – $19) or the Snail Pie. Lovers of pork will be well-pleased with the generous main (Crisp confit pork belly, braised pork shin, parsnip and vanilla with watercress mousse – $37). The balance of the menu offers up fish, beef, lamb and rabbit with a tempting soufflé for dessert should you have the constitution. Do visit before that snail pie comes off the menu.